Friday, March 04, 2005

Quick Swirl: Gevrey-Chambertin (Champy) 2002 (PB)

This pours incredibly light with a big cloud of sweet fruit rising from the open bottle. The bouquet has finesse, gentle and steely like a Sangiovese with etiquette. In the mouth it is really sour and the flavor is minimal. If this is “it” this is a huge and expensive disappointment. In half an hour, the bouquet turns a bit “funky.” (According to a recent Gaiter and Brecher column I read (WSJ) this is not uncommon for pinot noirs of Burgundy—okay but it’s not thrilling me…With some air the flavor is bigger and the sourness does soften. Maybe this will grow on me; it does have a nice balance but for the money, give me a good cab. or merlot.

Once again in all honesty, I have almost no experience with Burgundy. I have no benchmark to judge this by so I don't know if this is even the way the wine should taste. It could be corked for all I know but I don't think so. I certainly welcome anyone with experience with this wine or Burgundies of this year to give me some help here! If this is it, for $32, it ought to be "Chumpy" and not "Champy!"

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