Monday, July 25, 2005

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2001 (PB)

This is a re-tasting of an old favorite. I decanted it as I didn’t have a lot of time to breathe it. On the pour, the room filled with cherries and blackberries and super rich, ripe fruit. My wife said, “Wow! Perfume!”

In the mouth it is actually a little sweet compared to most merlot styles, and marvelously balanced and full of flavors of spicy fruit, chocolate fudge aromas and flavors and it is absolutely wowing!!!
This wine is definitely at its peak right now. At $ 40 this wine would be fine; at the $10 price it is, if you find it, grab it and drink it right away. This a sensational first class quaff with a finish that makes you want to salute!

(This wine was already on the "Recommended Wine list--for a comparison of that tasting and this, go to the same one on the recommended list.)

La Vieille Ferme Cotes Du Ventoux 2003 [Red] (PB)

This Wine Spectator “best buy” was $6 on sale from $8. It is a Rhone red from the region named in the title of this entry. It is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Carignan. The aromas in the nose are a little inky, and reminds me of a jug wine. On the palate it is light bodied, a tad harsh, but flavors are “okay” but seem to disappear quickly. The finish is non-existent. Best buy? Not as far as I am concerned but if you find it at $6, try a bottle and raise a glass.

La Vieille Ferme 2004 (PB)

This French white is a blend of four grapes from the Cotes Du Luberon. The grapes–Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Ugni Blanc, and Roussanne give the bouquet a fairly well fruit filled bouquet for such an inexpensive wine. I paid $6 for it on sale from $8. The texture is a bit creamy with a sufficient acid bas but a little bitter. I served it too warm–right from the store–but with some chilling the aromas are a little melony, citrusy yet shallow. For the money, what the heck? Raise a glass.

Friday, July 22, 2005

David Bruce Petite Syrah 2003 (PB)

This is a brilliant purple young wine with big blackberry aromas on the opening. It was a gift from (NW) who thought my cellar was looking a little peaked on a recent visit. In truth, I try to drink down my cellar in summer since it is not climate controlled–it’s a tough job but someone has to do it...

Anyway, In the mouth this wine is big with a fruit forward flavor of berries and chocolate. It is raining outside which just started with one of those lovely summer showers that makes everything so fresh smelling. I am lighting my charcoal Weber grill–yes, some still actually cook with charcoal and this wine will pair well with a juicy T-Bone.

On breathing, it is well balanced with sophisticated tannins, good acid, and round flavors of fruit–dark fruit with a hint of blueberries and more chocalate. It is nearly perfect in the mouth. The finish is heavy with fruit...just plain nice. I am guessing the price is around $22. Raise a glass to summer showers!

Thursday, July 21, 2005

Echeverria Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (PB)

We had this wine recently at a wine tasting at Freeport (Maine) Wine and Cheese. I wasn’t impressed with it at the time but my wife wanted to take a bottle home so of course we did. I served it last night with seafood kabobs on the grill. I had refrigerated this wine a couple hours since the non-temperature controlled part of my cellar gets to 72 degrees this time of year. The wine was too cold when I served it but it still had a nice peachey bouquet more reminiscent of a Riesling or Gewurtztraminer than S. Blanc. First tasting showed good acid but flavors were rather shallow and a quick finish. I journaled at the time, “...give me New Zealand–this is a Chilean.”

But as the wine warmed up it was much more like a S. Blanc with a bit of that grassy S. Blanc hallmark flavor. The texture was actually a bit creamy and the overall quality was greatly improved with a satisfactory finish. It was excellent with a variety of foods. At $10, it is a sturdy value.

This demonstrates the profound impact serving wine at the right temperature can have; a rather dull, mediocre wine turned into a pleasant, solid value just by bringing the temperature up to “cool” rather than “chilled.” Raise a glass; we did!

Tuesday, July 19, 2005

Chateau Coufran Haut-Medoc 2000 (billy)

I had a glass of this wine on a NorthWest Airlines flight from the US to London. I was flying business class and the flight was long and the wine was gratus (as it ought to be on a ticket topping out around $5K US). The wine had nearly no time to breathe but that was ok. It displayed ripe cherries, red berries and mint on the nose. The palate was rich and creamy with a robust but quick finsish. There was lots of fruit that emerged as the wine sat exposed to the air. This wine has a lot of California in it. It's fruity but complex but not fruit-punchy.


It was nice to have a decent wine on an airline flight.

It's worth a look up.

Monday, July 18, 2005

Castellblanch Brut Zero Cava Brut Reserva NV (PB)

This sparkler is pale golden with a bouquet that is almost non-existant but a slight hint of peach. It has real nice tiny bubbles in the mouth but almost none in the glass. The flavors are shallow, the wine dry, and yet...well chilled, it is a nice, fresh Summer quaffer! At $12, it is a nice accompaniment to a variety of foods.
Raise a glass! We did!

Hunt for that bargain find! (PB)

Here I am still in Chicago enroute to our last stop of the trip. Last time here I found a bottle of BV Tapestry for $25. For some reason The Wine Spectator always pans this wine giving it, most recently, a score in the 70's.

This is baffling since this wine, regardless of year has been one of my very favorite wines. Beaulieu Vineyards had a TCA problem a couple years back. TCA is a contaminant of wines originating from a bad cork, or contamination somewhere in the system used for vinification. It can be the ruin of a wine producer and a real pain to find the source. Even in the worst year of TCA at BV, the Tapestry bottling was wonderful so go figure.

At any rate, the wine store I found it in a couple years back had changed its inventory to a "popular" selection of wine rather than the informed selection of wines it had previously. No Tapestry was found.

But what I did find was a bottle of Chateau Lynch-Bages, one of Bordeaux's premier wines of the Grand Cru Classe designation. It was a 1996 and they had what looked to be most of an entire case. It was priced at $69.95. This wine runs anywhere from $90-$115 per bottle. So, I will be hitting the store on my way out of town and picking up a bottle to take back to New England. Tonight, I will raise a glass to all of you of whatever it is we open. Cheers!

Wine totes for transport (PB)

Well here I am in the city of wind. With access to the net, I am able to at least give this update from Chicago. I stopped by a "Wine Spectator" affiliated wine store and felt like I was dropped in dream land. Binny's is a large chain the area with a vast array of wines from around the world. I could have spent a couple hours just gawking at labels and fantasizing about a cellar filled with bottles of first growths. Alas, traveling is not real condusive to purchases of more than a couple bottles.

I purposely brought along my "wine tote" anticipating that special find and bringing it back to New England. A wine tote is a carrier usually made of a canvas type material with two compartments; one side is for one bottle of wine and the other side is supposed to be for carrying two wine glasses. There are also a couple little pockets for storing a cork screw and whatever else might aid your impromptu picnic. (You can find these for $15-$30)

Its primary purpose is for that Summer time outing to the seaside, lakeside or park and you want to bring along a bottle to open as you enjoy God's great outdoors. The compartments are lined with an aluminized substance with reflective and insulating properties with an "R" value probably somewhere around .3. Never-the-less, it does provide some kind of temporary protection of the wine from the scorching extreme of a sun baked vehicle.

With the wine glasses removed, it makes an adequate carry-all for two bottles of wine and fits neatly into a carry-on or suitcase.

Overwhelmed with the selections in front of me, I had my eye on a Beaulieu Vineyards "Georges De Latour" Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon-2001. But instead of just snatching it up, I grabbed one of the so-called wine experts of the store; explained to him my situation of travel and asked him for a couple recommendations of something special I could take back "home."

He said the BV Special Reserve was nice but he unequivocally steered me toward a Darioush 2002 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. It was pricey at $65 but his exhuberance, excitement and unmitigated desire for me to try this wine over many others was compelling.

I then took him over to the Bordeauxs which was a who's who in winedom. I asked him to pick out something in the $30 range that was particularly nice. He gave me a choice of two or three bottles and after some interrogation I settled on the Chateau Leoville Barton 2002--$37.

With my wine tote in tow, I made my purchases and will head back for "home" tommorrow looking for the right opportunity to open each wine with a story and a memory. And there is the beauty of the study; it's more than drinking a beverage as I have written previously. It is about an experience, memories, stories and sharing of life with someone(s) special.

The next time you have to take a trip for business or pleasure, consider taking advantage of the destination to which you're headed and take an expedition or two for that special bottle of wine that might just turn your dreaded obligation into a wonderful adventure. Now raise a glass to our travels back to New England.

Sunday, July 17, 2005

Erath Vineyards Reserve 1999 Pinot Noir (billy)

This was another Oregon wine (Erath Vineyards Willamette Valley, Oregon) that I tasted while at Salty's paying $10.50 for a glass. (see previous review for link to wine list with the restaurant's review). While I enjoyed this wine, it wasn't as much of a WOW as the Pinot Gris. This Pinot Noir had much more of a "POW". Here's what I journaled:
Robust nose booming with black cherry and wet leather and butter. On the palate it has a strong and pleasing acidity with well rounded tannins. Minerals and a hint of vanilla hang around with a finish that says, "WE ARE HERE!". The Finish is a taste bud snapshot without a camera. It contains a hat-tip (though not a full bow) to barrel aging and says "I'm Hearty".
Indeed.

King Estate Oregon Pinot Gris 2003 (billy)

This was a Pinot Gris I bought by the glass ($9.50) at Salty's seafood restaurant in Portland while on business. This is a wine crafted locally in Oregon. Here is the entry from my journal:
Quite light and elegant on the eyes. Quite a chardonnay style aroma on the nose. Citrus fruit, and sweet floral scent with honey on the nose. There is a bit of a spritzer with pleasing tannins that drop off very quickly to a very mild and elegant sliced green apple finish that almost is not enough but winds up making me say "ahhhhh."
A nice salad or greenery wine or fresh fruit accompaniment



If you are interested, you may view the Salty's wine list (with their review of this Pinot) here. The menu is in PDF format so you'll need Adobe's free Acrobat viewer plugin for your browser.

I've not sought out this wine locally, but given the Supreme Court's decision on wine shipping, you *may* be able to get it shipped to you.

Back to Posting (billy)

Well it has been a long and busy time but things are starting to revert back to normal here. Through the craziness (including international travel at a moments notice, illness, family trips and the Star Wars Episode III opener) some great and not-so-great wines have been samples and recorded in my handy little wine journal.

It is now that I go back through those writings to share my thoughts on the wines enjoyed with you.

Here's a glass raised to all the wine tasted over the last several weeks.

Wednesday, July 13, 2005

A Word To Our Regular Visitors (PB)

One of the elements of a good blog is regular posting such that it does not become stale and turn away repeat viewers as they land on the blog only to find the same old post unchanged from the last time they visited. To that end I have tried to keep winecask updated at least daily with a pretty fair level of success. But—even PB has to leave town occasionally either on business or just to get away. So, to our regular visitors, do not loose heart!

I will be away from July 13-July 20 and more than likely, there will be no new posts between now and then unless life settles down for “Billy” and/or “NW” and they get behind the keyboard again.

So thank you for visiting, I shall return, and I appreciate your taking the time to stop by! Until we meet again at this website, by all means—“Raise a glass!”

Tuesday, July 12, 2005

Mumm’s Napa NV Brut Prestige (PB)

This was a gift from the restaurant we went to for our anniversary mentioned in an earlier blog. We took the split (a split is a little bottle of wine; in this case 187ml) and put a good chill on it. I was expecting an overly sweet, tired, cloying grapey wine that would be better flushed than drank accept that Mumms is a “good” name. On opening this wine was full of apple and citrus with tight bubbles on the palate that were exciting. It is dry, refreshing, and a solid sparkler.

This was much better than the Chandon reviewed previously to this entry. It has a tart finish with is down right juicy. I will search this out to buy a full bottle! I believe it sells for around $18. Raise a glass!

Chandon Brut Classic NV (PB)

This sparkler has a bouquet of unfermented grape juice which always reminds me of “cheap” wine or homemade wine that isn’t very appealing. The bubbles are okay but not bright and the flavor is grapey with hints of apples. It is dry, unremarkable and straight forward. Fruit is average; this is just a lackluster creation of Pinot Noir Chardonnay and Pinto Meunier. This wine was $20–about $12 too much! Don’t raise another glass of this; there’s much better out there.

Casillero Del Diablo Carnemere 2004 (PB)

This is another Chilean wine from the folks at Concha Y Toro. It runs $9 and is a nice value. It is a lush garnet red with huge ripe fruit forward aromas of blackberries, black cherries and blueberries. In the mouth it is meaty, a bit hot, and a bit tannic on opening but gobs of beefy and spicy smoke.

With some breathing, it is full bodied, robust and tones down to a decent balanced wine. Finish is smokey like BBQ aromas. It is really a kickin wine! Raise a glass.

Saturday, July 09, 2005

Mark West Pinot Noir 2003 Central Coast (PB)

For our celebration of 32 years together my wife and I went to one of our few, fine, eating establishments. The Apollo Bistro is a quaint setting in the upper floor of an old New England house with seating for a relative few. The menu is select, intentional and unique; the service attentive; the wine list lacking but affordable.

We kept going back and forth between wine list and menu before making each of our selections. It would be challenging to get a bottle of wine that would be a decent pairing for my wife’s Caribbean spiced grouper and shrimp and my coffee encrusted pork tenderloins with balsamic and roasted figs. We settled on the Mark West Pinot Noir listed above.

It was classic California Pinot in both color and Pinot bouquet that borders on a little stinky. It had a bouquet of raisins and fruit. In the mouth it was nicely balanced with good structure and ready to drink on opening. Though served a little on the warm side, it wasn't disturbingly so. It was a perfect pairing for my tenderloin. I really can’t say how it was for my wife but she didn’t complain and seemed to enjoy it as well.

Had I wanted to spend a bit more on the wine, I would have probably ordered one of the two (maybe three) selections of Zinfandel on the list but at $22 (remember that’s restaurant price)(about $12 retail) I went with the Central Coast Pinot and was glad I did.

Dessert was equalliy unique and wonderful.

We raised a glass and the staff even brought us out a split of Mumm’s–on the house–for our anniversary. This is the kind of extra touch that will bring us, and others back. If you’re ever in the central Maine region vacationing, don’t pass up this easily overlooked establishment of fine food!

Rosa Regale Brachetto D’Acqui 2003 Banfi (PB)

This is a sparkling red dessert wine from Italy with a brilliant raspberry red color and a sweet, fruity bouquet to match. In the mouth it is intensely sweet and only very lightly “frizzante” (sparkling) with a rich sweetness that borders on, but doesn’t cross, being cloying. This is so raspberryish that if I didn’t know better I would have even thought it was a raspberry wine.

The finish is actually lingering and creamy. With a pretty good chill on it, it is refreshing as an apperitffe which is why we opened it on the eve of our 32nd wedding anniversary before going out to dinner. It was a treat but not an especially great value at $17 for 375ml. Raise a glass today to our 32 years together!

Friday, July 08, 2005

Concannon Petite Syrah 2003 "Select Vineyards" (PB)

This wine is intensely rich in color with a deep, dark purple but crystalline hue. There is richness to the bouquet and a nose fairly intense of blackberries and green peppers. In the mouth this is wildly austere with a tight structure that needs time to breathe and time to age. It has plenty of thick tannins to age this wine for years it seems.

With breathing, there is only a slight give on what I think are some pretty intense flavors locked away under an encasement of tannins. A slight hint of mint is apparent but not much else from the opening. This same wine of the previous year’s vintage (2002) is by far a better wine to drink right now. This one may deliver in a few more years but right now, it’s confrontative and insensitive. (I love inane wine talk like that!) Look for the 2002 to drink now and the 2003 to lay down. Both can be found for around $10. Now raise a glass!

Wednesday, July 06, 2005

Dry Creek Chenin Blanc 2003 (PB)

Previously reviewed California Chenin Blanc–the grape that gets little respect– is citrusy and fruity and has such a bracing acidity that it is really nice with food. This is the grape of the Loire and need not be associated with the cheap white jug wines of years gone by.

What is being done with this grape gives portent to what will surely be rising prices for well made Chenin Blancs and Dry Creek does it as well as anybody and better than most. I have the 2004 on order and it supposed to be even better than the 03. No matter what you think, give this wine a try. At less than $9 you will be thrilled you did! Raise a glass!

Monday, July 04, 2005

Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2004 (PB)

Okay, I DON’T do wines with stupid animals on the labels or with really stupid names like Old Fart and the like. But...I was reading the Wine Enthusiast and a wine with an 87 rating and an “Editor’s Choice” caught my attention. Then, NW strolls into town and says “Monkey Bay Sauvignon Blanc is the best Sauvignon Blanc I have ever had” I said, “Whoa!” Okay I have to at least give this a shot–stupid animal on the label not withstanding.

I looked a couple places but to no avail. As it turns out, our major supermarket chain carries it and it’s CHEAP! $8.99 for this New Zealand phenome. It is a pale yellow in the glass with a phenomenal classic “grassy” Sauvignon Blanc bouquet with a citrusy foundation. In the mouth this wine is superbly balanced with a solid base of acid which made it a perfect pairing with our Fourth of July Lobster–Oh yeah, Baby! SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET!!! It has fruity flavors which other reviewers call “stone fruit.” I have no idea what a stone fruit is but I know an outstanding wine when I taste it. *This is a marvelous example of the grape type and at this price you have GOT to run out and pick some up. It seems to be widely available. It is rich and creamy in the mouth and the finish just keeps on going and going. Why are you even still reading this? RUN Forest, run and pick up some of this stellar–artificially corked wine NOW! And then–Raise a glass! Oh yeah!

*Wine Spectator rated this wine an 85. I think they need to add another 5 points to that!

Dolceoro Moscato D’Asti n.v. (PB)

From Italy, the Moscatos are just plain wine guzzling refreshment at their lazy enjoyable best. This one emanate wonderful bouquet of ripe peaches and bounding in fruit aromas. On the palate it is lively with a hint of fizz and a sweetness which is a bit too much without sufficient acid to hold it up. But that said, the flavor of this wine is like biting into a fresh bouquet of flowers with a huge floral scent and floral flavors which just keep on going. To overcome the sweetness–although many will not see this a problem to overcome but a delight to revel in, it is best all by itself with a good chill on it.

I don’t remember what I paid for it but it was around $10 and it is worth the plain old summer fun this wine holds. Don’t worry so much about specific names for this wine; just pick up whatever Moscato you can find and chill it well and give it a whirl; I don’t think you’ll be dissappointed.

Raise a chilled glass and enjoy!

Reserve Des Chapelains 2000 (PB)

I saw this on an end cap at one of my wine haunts with a sign that said $5.79 regularly $12.99. I said, “Hey for that price, regardless of what the wine was supposed to cost, you can’t go too wrong fro the price.” I picked up one bottle–Remember I have learned that no matter how good a deal something seems, if you haven’t tasted it, don’t buy more than one bottle!

This wine is a Cotes Du Rhone produced red with a “Villages” designation. It is quite a light red color with an interesting nose of ripe plums and touch of raisins. It is austere on the palate, smokey and somewhat strident.. With a little breathing it is still hot and tannic but with a subtle and unique flavor that is hard to describe. Not much on the finish but then again, it didn’t cost much out of the wallet. When you compare this wine at this price to the previously reviewed wine at nearly 10 times the price, you begin to understand what we mean when we talk about wine value...

Now raise a glass.

Viu Manent Viu 1 2001 (PB)

Okay first–apologies for the hiatus of new entries but I DO have to earn a living and occasionally that requires me to travel. So I have been “out of pocket” as they say. So why not start out with a bang? NW and the fam dropped up for a visit and to deposit one female dog until their residence is ready in a nearby state. We decided to grill rib eyes and I decided to open this bottle I bought while visiting Billy in Minneapolis last winter. I bought it even though it was a wine outside my normal purse range. I have loved what Chile has produced in the way of inexpensive Merlots and Cabernets and I wanted to try a higher end wine. This one was around $50.

It has a wonderful deep and rich purple color–very young looking like pure grape juice. The bouquet was light with fresh cherries. It is spicy on the palate and quite dry. Tannins are firm but not oppressive though the wine is quite closed. It has a decent finish that lingers.

With some air time, there are berries in the nose and some green pepper flavors. It is rather “hot” and quite peppery like a bold zinfandel. All in all it is a decent wine but not worth the price tag!

Say ouch and raise a glass.

Monday, June 27, 2005

Beaulieu Vineyard “Beauzeaux” 2001 (PB)

This creation of the folks at BV shows they definitely have a sense of humor. The name of the wine–pronounced–“BOZO,” dare I say it–tasted “funny.” HAAAAAAAA, I crack myself up. Okay seriously this is a wine that is a blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Charbono, Syrah, Lagrein, Valdiguie and Touriga Nacionale. I have been studying–not merely tasting wine for about 30 years and I have never even heard of those last three grapes.

Never-the-less, this wild blend has a spicy bouquet (thanks to the Zinfandel no doubt) and a nose with anise hints. The color is deep and dark with more berry and chocolate aromas rising to the surface. In the mouth it has a solid structure with respectable flavors and a little complexity as air opens it up. It has a solid tannin base which should allow it to age for a few more years.

We had this wine in Napa a couple years ago at the BV Vineyards. Finding it in Portland, Maine was a huge eureka as the memories the wine carried were worth the $24 price tag. Honestly though, the wine is over priced which shows how much of enjoying wine is so much more–at times–than just the way it holds up under the scrutiny of our senses.

There’s a value to great memories and for my wife and I, we would have paid even more just for the opportunity to take it home and reminisce.
*Read re-review of this wine April 20, 2006

The folks at BV were far and away the most friendly and fun folks of all the vineyards we visited. If you’re in Napa, Beaulieu is one of the don’t miss places to stop by for a tasting. This wine, at $24 is overpriced as a wine; as a memory of a trip back to California and a great tour of the wine country, it was well worth the price. Now raise a glass!

Trentadue Old Patch Red 2003 (PB)

This gorgeous wine has a young hue and vibrant depth in the glass. It is rich looking with a luscious bouquet of a mixture of fresh berries just picked. This is a blend of Zinfandel, Sangiovese (the great grape of Tuscany) Petite Sirah, Carignane, and Syrah. Zinfandel and Sangiovese seem to be the bouquet busters predominantly. On the palate at opening, it is hot and tannic with stifled fruit. After a few minutes of breathing the bouquet is fabulous with a sweet hint of bananas. It is still hot after considerable air and quite tannic--seemingly immature. As it is, it is somewhat nondescript although you can taste the berries trying to fight their way out. They are going to need more time to win. Give it another couple years! At $15, there’s better out there for drinking right now! Raise a glass.

Monday, June 20, 2005

Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc “Cellar Selection” 2004 (PB)

This is Villa Maria’s 2nd tier bottling and it is outstanding--They also produce a "Reserve" which is more expensive still. This New Zealand white–even with a screw top–grrrrr-has a wonderful floral bouquet with hints of peaches and pears. In the mouth it is lively with a micro-sparkle that tantalizes, it sits a bit sweet-ish yet has wonderful acid with a creamy texture with classic grassy Sauvignon Blanc flavors.. It finishes wonderfully with a lasting remembrance. NW brought this up the last time he was here. Score one for NW. It’s really NICCCCCCCCCCCCE! Because of its solid foundation of acid balance it is great with food, especially fatty food like grilled salmon which we just had.

The difference between a $14 wine and an $8 wine can be a world of difference. Splurge and buy this wine or another like it from New Zealand in the $14 range; the difference is remarkable. Wine Spectator gave this wine "Smart Buy" rating and a 91 to boot! Oh yeah!!! Now raise a glass!

Fossi Rosso Vin De Tavola (PB)

This Italian table wine cost $8 and was bought on a whim by my wife. With a reheated meal of manicotti from a restaurant we went to a couple days earlier, we were eager to try this inexpensive red from Italy. On opening the bouquet was expansive but odd. In the glass it was somewhat portish with a definite background of toluene (airplane glue). Something was wrong! Looking at it again it was cloudy in the glass and a tad brown. Being the glutton for punishment that I am I tasted it anyway. AWK! This wine is corked, flawed, or bad in some other way. I will contact my wine guy and check out his protocol for procuring a “bad” wine.

Chateau Le Bourdieu 2000 (PB)

This Cru Bourgeois is from the Medoc of the famed vintage of the century. It has a big aroma laden bouquet. It is tart in the mouth, closed, tight, with austere tannins. Not much flavor due to immaturity. This wine must be breathed and it will open I am confident.

With some time, it yields a bouquet laden with chocolate and keeps on giving with a little menthol. It is still fairly tight but loosening up. Berries are starting to come up with sweet fresh cherries in the bouquet now. Tannins are still heavy; this wine will age for years. It is a good quality old world wine with subtle nuances that will only get better with some time. I would hold this for another 2-3 years before drinking. It was $12. Buy another and hold it a couple years.

Friday, June 17, 2005

Covey Run Dry Riesling 2003 (PB)

From Washington State, this is a brilliant, lively white with a unique bouquet of Guava(?) pears and peaches delicately balanced with a candied nose of something elusive and exciting.

This wine seems a bit sweet in the mouth yet its acidity balances it out to seeming a little dusty. It turns buttery, and fruity with dancing eensy bubbles on your tongue. It is wonderful with food or by itself.

At $8, this is a winner and another recommended wine to seek after. I just returned from the place where I bought it and of course they have been replaced by the 2004’s. I picked up one bottle to see if it is anything like it’s older brother. If it is, I’ll be buying more. Now raise a glass!

Thursday, June 16, 2005

House Wine Columbia Valley 2003 (PB)

This wine has such an amateurish looking label you are likely to pass it up on the shelf. Give a magic marker to your 5 year old and tell her to design you a label for your new house wine and this is what you might expect—a blocky picture of hand sketched house and the words House Wine on a white label. That’s it. It’s ugly, but don’t pass up what is in the bottle. The sometimes bizarre ex-rock world producer “Charles Smith” of “K” Vintners is creating some out of the ordinary, wowing wines.

This one will run you less than $12 and is a blend of Washington state Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Merlot and it is really BIG! From the first pour the deep, deep purple, youthful wine exudes a bouquet that is room filling with a chocolate nose that keeps growing. On opening, the tannins will bust your palate and bury the fruit but give it some room to breath and then decant it for a wild time of fudgey aromas, berries forward and cherries behind with the tannins taking a sedative settling into a recliner for the rest of the ride. This is a wine to be sought out and bought and drunk, NOW! Raise a bottle!

Tuesday, June 14, 2005

Excelsior Paddock Shiraz 2004 (PB)

This Varietal from the folks in S. Africa who had produced my favorite inexpensive red blend a couple years back has produced a new world offering with a huge berry nose of ripe blackberries but there is considerable alcohol on the nose as well. In the mouth it is a bit sweet, with decent acid, relaxed tannins but a bit “hot.” It is not deep on flavor but definite with a chocolate and leather finish with some smoke on the side.

With a little breathing, it is not helped and even seems less than what it was. This was okay but I wouldn’t waste my time or money ($8) searching after it.

Friday, June 10, 2005

Marietta Cellars California Old Vine Red Lot # 36 (PB)

This Geyserville blend from area locales is an artful conglomeration of Gamay, Zinfandel, Petite Syrah and Carignane. This is a non-vintage wine but don’t be fooled thinking it is a run of the mill bottling.

On opening it is a dark, inky black with gargantuan berry aromas with a portish kind of nose. It has sound structure with balance and bold flavors which are jammy and fruit forward, a little spicy on the palate with a touch of sweetness and full. On the finish it is nothing but blackberries that keep on going. My wife loves it! It is nice! At $13, give it a shot. If you like being assaulted by flavor and well balanced tannins and acid, this is a wine for you! We're raising a glass!

Brancott Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2002 (PB)

This New Zealand white from the Marlborough region of New Zealand is a fine example of the HUGE difference paying a little more for a wine can make. I have tasted scads of Sauvignon Blancs over the years basically all under $10. So when I opened this wine I was baffled what the bouquet was emanating from the glass!

This golden delight is unlike anything I have ever had with different layers of aromas that I had a hard time pinning down. But as close as I could come is touches of peach and pears, with cantaloupe mixed and then another layer of something really nice I can only describe as a bouquet of flowers; a touch green, but a touch perfumey as well and then another layer of something reminding me of oregano yet not oregano. This is what wine tasting is about!

All this was even before it went into my mouth and it had already been worth the cost—a mere $14! In the mouth it is citrusy and tart with flavors of all the above aromas. When it is swallowed, it is again tart yet creamy and just plain nice!

Monday, June 06, 2005

Kendall-Jackson Pinot Noir 2003 Vintner’s Reserve (PB)

On the pour this has a typical Pinot color of lighter red with a translucent appearance yet the bouquet fills the room of fresh fruit of raspberries with a layer of currants. Beyond that there is a layer of black cherries and black berries; an impressive start!

In the mouth, the first impression is spice on a nice texture that is elegant in balance all the way around. The finish of this wine is also pleasant with a subtle touch of chocolate. I believe this was a Gaiter /Brecher favorite for inexpensive Pinot Noirs showing yet again that their recommendations are usually right on the money. At $12, this was certainly a winner and will be on the recommended list. Raise a glass again and again!

Goats Do Rome Rose 2003 (PB)

When was the last time I actually spent money on a rose? I can’t remember but I would guess it has been over 20 years. Why would anyone who actually loves wine buy a rose? When Gaiter and Brecher of the Wall Street Journal recommend one. Friday’s wine column on was tasting a passel of roses. In my mind, roses are a good reason NOT to drink wine but soda pop instead. Never-the-less, I have always found Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher to have reliable assessments of their tasting forays and this week it was roses. About the only one I recognized was the South African Rose called Goats do Rome. This is the same group that makes a good quality red wine for about $10. This rose was $8 and is a blend of granache, pinotage, shiraz and cinsault.

Over simplifying a bit roses are made from red grapes which are not left in contact with the juice for nearly as long as a red wine; hence the much lighter color and difference in flavor. The WSJ recommended the 2004 but I could only find the 2003. Putting a good chill on it I opened it and found it to have a fresh fruity bouquet but very subdued. The flavor was refreshing but shallow, pleasant but hollow. It was gone before you know it and when trying to describe it, it left you stupefied trying to describe nothingness. About all I could say is, “it wasn’t offensive...” But in fairness this was not the same vintage receommendced by the WSJ. So for $8,I shall give it another chance when the 2004 is available in my neck of the woods. Until then, I’d raise a glass of something else!

Wednesday, June 01, 2005

Guigal Cotes Du Rhone 2000 (PB)

This Wine Spectator “best value” scored an 88. This Rhone made largely of Syrah I assume is produced by the reliable Guigal. It has a very subdued bouquet and a bit of a stinky odor on opening. In the mouth it is tannic and there is not much flavor. Breathing should help open this up.

With a little bit of air time the stink is gone and an apple sauce kind of nose is present. The taste is still shallow and simple but much better than it was on opening and the balance is starting to come around. This is an old world wine to be sure. With another half hour of breathing or so, it opens decently and is a pleasant enough wine with currants coming forth and a nice balance. I paid $10 for this at a Sam’s Club after searching through three cases of 2001’s to find the last two of this vintage. All in all, it’s a good wine but I think 88 is over rated. Raise a glass—by the way we paired it with a filet mignon and Gorgonzola risotto. Nice!

Tuesday, May 31, 2005

Sierra Cantabria 2002 (PB)

This Rioja red is pretty with chocolate reminders right our of the gate. It hints at spice on first impression with a chocolate covered cherries nose. For the price--$12—I really like it though it is very short lived. Rioja wines are really starting to grow on me. Spain is starting to really come around with some great values and classy creations especially when you get to the $20 range. (See my past entry on Coto De Imaz)and raise a glass!

Tenuta Dell’ Ornellaia Toscana Le Volte 2002 (PB)

If you read my entry about a special dinner in Boston for Mother’s Day, this is the wine I bought a glass of that rocked my enophilic socks off with one little exception—the vintage. My “Wine Guy” ordered it for me but when it arrived it was the 2002 and not the 2001. With apology, he told me I could bring them both back if I didn’t like it, even the opened bottle.

Well, with NW in town—yes he’s been found although he has not been blogging due to issues of relocation and a newborn—it was the perfect opportunity to crack this bottle open and see the difference one year makes.

Here is what I wrote about he 2001—“…immediate burst of fresh cherries, very well balanced with several layers of olives, and an utterly fantastic layer of a fresh bouquet of flowers with definite cedar or menthol notes with another layer of anise or licorice and currants.”

Here is the review for the same wine in everyway but the vintage—2002: On opening there’s a little bottle stink and very vegetal nose which is not enticing. In the mouth it is a tad bitter and there is very little flavor but the potential for a decent balance all things considered. The finish is tight.

Note- the restaurant wine I had by the glass could have been opened for hours so I want as much as possible to compare apples, uh, I mean, grapes to grapes. So in fairness, I will breathe this wine for several hours and check it along the way.

After 5 ½ hours of breathing there is a very faint hint of chocolate and a very faint berry scent but it is all overpowered by alcohol. The tannins are still rock hard and try as I may to like this wine, it is “hot” and rather lifeless. I will decant it to try and open it up some.

Finally after 7 hours of air time with decanting, it relaxes some and the balance is considerably better but still too austere all the way around. I believe that more bottle age would help this wine out but even with that, it just isn’t the same wine as the 2001; not by a wide a margin. At $25 for the bottle, it is not a good value.

Moral of the story, vintage obviously can make a HUGE difference and coincidentally, the 01 vintage in Tuscany was superior and the 02 was marginal. So if you’re shopping for a particular wine and you find it but it isn’t the same vintage, you’d probably better pass it up. Different vintage means different wine! Raise a glass!

Sunday, May 29, 2005

Memorial Day Grilling and Wine (PB)

As I write it is only two hours away from Memorial Day. Tomorrow I will go to our local parade and pay tribute to the many who have given the ultimate sacrifice in the service of our country in the interest of gaining and maintaining freedom; freedom which we take so for granted. I hope you’ll do likewise and then go home and crank up the grill. Next to the Fourth of July, Memorial Day is the biggest BBQ weekend of the year.

Real charcoal grills have given way in large part to the more convenient gas grills and where pocket books run deep and weather more moderate than Northern New England, grills have taken on the stature and cost of a major household appliance. Gloss Black Weber kettle grills have given way in large part to gargantuan stainless steel behemoths with rotisseries, side burners, warmer and racks. Somehow, as much I love cooking and would love to try my hand at grillingus maximus, I have a hard time justifying the cost of an outdoor cooker that costs far more tan my first several cars!

For my part, I am a bit of a purest who still uses a Weber Kettle (and used one at that) with honest to goodness real charcoal. Say what you want, but I’ve never had anything grilled on a gas grill that delivers that real BBQ taste like charcoal and while that is wonderful it also presents a challenge to pairing wine.

Basic rule of thumb is you need a bold wine to hold up to the bold flavors of charcoal and smoke. Zinfandel is a nice choice for many grilled meats but even sturdy whites would do well with lighter grilled meats and veggies. So, enjoy a parade, give thanks for all the luxuries of freedom we have that cost so many so much, and pop a cork with whatever you might throw on that grill. Experiment and see what works and what doesn’t. And then raise a glass to our men and women are so valiantly fighting for safety, our freedom and our faith.

Saturday, May 28, 2005

Feudo Arancio 2002 (PB)

This Sicilian Nero D’Avola is a nice bright wine with a yeasty bouquet and a decent though somewhat non-descript nose. In the mouth immediately after pouring, it gives an initial impression of being “sweet” but it is NOT sweet and has a base of solid tannins. Again, flavors are closed and hard to define yet this is a tantalizing wine.

After twenty minutes or so of breathing it opens a bit though not tremendously but with nice fruit; clearly this is a wine made in the old world style where everything is just more subtle. It paired well with Italian sausage and tortellini. This wine was $8 on sale from $10 and as I wrote, it is rather simple but well made and a good value at this price--another bottle of wine which passed the all-important “empty bottle” test by the end of dinner. Now raise a glass!

Friday, May 27, 2005

French wine sales are still in the dumper.

According to a report in the Wine Spectator the “first quarter of 2005 results show that exports fell 13.2% by volume compared to the fourth quarter of 2004. Regions with the worst showings were Cotes du Rhone, down by 34.7%, and Bordeaux, down 17.7%.”

What this means in practical terms is that if you were boycotting French wine due to their anti-American politics as many Americans have done, but have thought about relaxing your boycott as France, in some ways, tries to make up to the U.S. (sort of) then there ought to be values galore coming from the Cotes du Rhone and Bordeaux regions. Search accordingly! FYI

First Time Here?

If you are new to this blog or have never read the "Wine Cask Introduction" at the right, please do so. It will put this blog in perspective! Thanks for visiting--PB

Thursday, May 26, 2005

Cartlidge and Browne Pinot Noir 2003 (PB)

This light red beauty comes out of the bottle with seductive aromas of fresh fruit and pipe tobacco aromas. In the mouth it has a lively tartness with a pleasant underlying tease of something elusive but wonderful. It finishes dry with some sexy undertones of that mysterious “something.” With a little air, this wine opens into a lovely and elegant wine with a subtle raisiny overtone that is just simply fresh and tantalizing. At $10.50 this is certainly a recommended wine and Gaiter and Brecher of the Wall Street Journal prove once again to be dead on with their recommendation as an inexpensive Pinot Noir "best value." Raise a glass tonight!

Monday, May 23, 2005

The Effects of "Breathing" cont’d (PB)

Make sure you read the post BEFORE this one!
The Seghesio Zinfandel referred to in my previous entry was breathed for two hours and re-tasted. Essentially NO change! But I cam confident that it will. Be patient!

At three hours of air this Zin is starting to relax–finally. The tannins are beginning to lighten up their grip though they are still plenty chewy yet plums are in the background with flavors still trying to battle their way out. I will decant this wine to push it out of it’s austere posture. Finally, eureka! With decanting blackberries emerge and vanilla makes its presence known with currants in the finish.

As stated in my previous entry, if I had ordered this with dinner at a restaurant, I would have missed all of this and it would have seemed to be a very marginal wine. As it is, the $19 I paid for it was too much (should cost more like $11.00) but it is a good wine none-the-less. (By the way, my BBQ’d brisket was a lost cause...that’s what I get for watching BBQ week on the food channel! We had chicken on the grill in stead.)

The Effects of “Breathing” a Wine (PB)

I am a big fan of breathing my red wines; all red wines, inexpensive ones, moderate ones, everything except “jug” wines...I have posted in the past re: the benefits and cautions re: breathing your wine. So for this little demonstration, I just opened a bottle of Seghesio Zinfandel 2003 (Sonoma) which cost me $19. Out of the gate is a gorgeous garnet color and the first thing to hit my nose is an absolutely wonderful aroma of candied cherries; something like a little kid might pop in his mouth and suck on it with glee. On the swirl, ripe plums are down deep but there is an overpowering mask of alcohol and what I call “stuff.” First taste reveals a wine of some intensity but a tannic foundation and acid accomplice overwhelm much of any tastes that I believe are waiting to be released. The finish is tannic and fairly nondescript.

NOW–if I were ready to sit down to dinner, or just had this opened for me at a restaurant and downed it with my meal, I might call it a wine with potential but all in all is disappointing and austere. If I didn’t know any better I would assess this as a very mediocre wine. BUT...I DO know better and I am guessing that this wine is going to burst wide open with some complexity and flavors galore with the tannins melting away into a gentlemanly doorman just waiting to grace my palate with a welcoming ingress. (Okay, getting carried away with the metaphor but I hope you get my point.) It is 2:30 EST in the afternoon May 23, when I opened this and I just put a beef brisket on the grill to slow cook/smoke for dinner with this wine. Be sure to read my subsequent post when I re-taste this wine with a couple hours of air on it! And while you’re waiting, raise a glass!

Saturday, May 21, 2005

Chateau Ste. Michelle Gewurztraminer 2003 (PB)

This Washington State varietal has a slight golden hue on the pour with a big green apple bouquet with a touch of peach and a very light citrus background. In the mouth it is richer than many Gewurtz’s I am used to with a creamy texture and a rigid acid base which will make it easier to pair with food. (I tend to like Gewurztraminer all by itself with a good chill on it) but this one will be paired with the all American dish called “macaroni and cheese.”

The finish on this wine is creamy and lasting leaving the mouth a bit tingly. I paid $10 for this wine on sale from $12. For the record, this was a better made wine than most Gewurtz’s we’ve had but my wife liked it the least. I’ve said it before and I’m saying it again, the bottom line is what YOU like! I’ll be raising a glass of this again, later on.

(It was so-so with macaroni and cheese...”)

Friday, May 20, 2005

More Health Benefits From Wine (PB)

From the Wine Spectator Internet site May 20, 2005
"Conventional wisdom has held that alcohol was a sworn enemy of the kidneys, the twin organs responsible for filtering impurities in the blood and passing them from the body. However, this belief is being challenged by a new study that has found that a drink or two a day may lower the risk of kidney failure.
The study, published in the May 9 issue of the Archives of Internal Medicine, found that men who consumed at least seven drinks in a week showed a 29 percent lower risk of renal dysfunction than nondrinkers and infrequent drinkers. Men who had five to six drinks a week had an 8 percent lower risk. The study did not distinguish among different types of alcohol."

Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (PB)

This Chilean is one of my reliable favorites though it has tended to have some off years lately. This reserve Cabernet is medium cherry in color on the pour with prominent blackberry aromas. The tannins are august on opening and need some time to chill out so to speak, and smoke finishes this quickly reviewed pour.

With a few minutes of breathing (20 minutes) the tannins have settled back in a lounge chair allowing more of the parietal flavors to come forth. It is a sturdy wine with some time to mature yet though good and ready right now. At $14, you can find better wines, but this is worth the price. Raise a glass!

Monday, May 16, 2005

Revised--Supreme Court rules in favor of wine enthusiasts--well, sort of! (PB)

On May 16, the Supreme Court of the United States ruled that it is unconstitutional for a state to prohibit the shipment of wine out of state to consumers IF that particular state allows wineries in state to ship to consumers within that state.

Traveling to Napa a couple years ago I wanted to join a wine club at one of the wineries but was informed that it was illegal for them to ship wine to my house in the state of Maine. As Michigan and New York's laws were challenged and overturned at the federal level, I was optimistic that the Supreme Court would trash this law making it legal for any consumer to buy wine at an out of state winery having it shipped to their home or over the internet taking advantage of boutique wineries that do not distribute out of their state of production.

So my wife and I raised a glass to the U.S. Supreme Court but alas it was for naught!

So, it only means that if your state allows wineries in your state to ship to consumers in that state, it cannot prohibit the shipment of wine to your house from an out of state winery.

The state now has the obligation to change their state law so that it is consistent. In other words, they must change their current laws prohibiting shipment of wine from out of state OR they may prohibit all shipment of wine, both in-state and out of state, to consumers.

Back to the drawing board!

Simonsig Chenin Blanc 2003 (PB)

This South African from the Stellenbosch region is golden pale on the pour with fruit galore in the bouquet has a nose of pears, Apple, peaches and apricots with even a hint of nectarines and a definite texture and flavor of rich cream. It looks viscous in the glass and in the mouth has a nice texture with tart and slightly sour flavors with good acid. The flavors are a bit thinner than I would have expected but all in all they are sturdy and fairly wonderful. The finish is solid and rich. I served it a bit warm. Cooled down it is really nice. The Wine Enthusiast called this wine the best white wine value in the world. I’m not sure I would go that far but it is really nice. I recommend it. Now raise a glass!

Val Serena Vin Santo (PB)

On the pour there is too much alcohol in the nose with port-like nose. It is amber with a tinge of pink. It is very sweet like a port with hints of raisin and guava. This is the traditional Italian desert wine but this is one is a really inexpensive variety costing just $6 for a Half bottle. Yes it is shallow, yes it is out of balance and yes it doesn’t have much of a finish but for Pete’s sake, it’s $6. And frankly, for that, I’ll raise a glass!

Sunday, May 15, 2005

Establish yourself with your local wine shop (PB)

I’ve written in the past about what makes a good wine shop. One of the attributes is an attentive and responsive store staff. When it's the owner, it's that much better. So when I had a glass of wine in a Boston restaurant over Mother’s Day (see previous blog entry) I called my “wine guy” and asked him to see if he could find it by the bottle. He notified me that he was able to procure the Tenuta dell' Ornellaia Toscana Le Volte 2001 that I fell in love with at that special dinner.

I was ecstatic and asked him to order two bottles for me. Though this wine is only $25 per bottle (x 2), that’s still a bit more than I generally pay for wine. Never-the-less, for this wine, I’m not sure it would have mattered no matter what the price! So you can imagine the disappointment when my “wine guy” notified me that the wine was in but it wasn’t the 2001 but the 2002 apparently his supplier misinformed him. So he wanted to know if I still wanted the wine.

There’s a couple of points to be made here. First, a wine by the exact same name, etc. but a different vintage is a totally different wine. I’m not ready to say vintage is everything because a great wine maker can work magic with a less than stellar vintage, but even a master can only do so much. In the case of this wine, the 2001 was a great vintage for Tuscany but the 2002 was a marginal one. Normally I wouldn’t even consider the exhange except that this wine has me so enamored that I am willing to give a different vintage a try knowing how much artful production contributes to the overall quality. The second point, is that I know I can return the unopened bottle if I don’t like the first. Now this is where it pays to establish consistency and credibility with your wine shop. My wine guy e-mailed me to say that even I didn’t like the first bottle when I opened it, to bring it back as well. Now that's a place you're going to frequent.

Well, all this writing about wine, makes me want to open a bottle in preparation for tonight’s dinner. I am preparing homemade carbonara pasta for some friends and we will be trying 2-3 different wines. So, pardon me while I raise a glass...and write some more reviews!

Saturday, May 14, 2005

Cockburn’s Fine Ruby Porto (PB)

This sale wine for $7 is a pretty ruby color with a strong bouquet of strawberries and blueberries with the typical undercurrent of portish raisins. It is rather “hot” though in the mouth with good port sweetness and more raisin flavors. For the price, it is a good enough value.

Tuesday, May 10, 2005

Rosemount Estates Traminer-Riesling 2004 (PB)

This South Eastern Australian blend is a pale golden with a very light bouquet of apricots and peaches. In the mouth it is sweeter than I would have expected but is quite refreshing. It could benefit from a little more acid to counter the intense sweetness but it works never-the-less. The texture is rich and there is a subtle hint of bananas which is quite nice. The finish is long and satisfying. This was a Wine Spectator top 100 under $15. I paid $6 on sale from $9. I was a little reticent to pair it with food due its rich sweetness but we had breaded pollock on a bed of steamed spinach with fiddle heads. It worked very well. Which is why we cannot raise a glass; there’s nothing left-- always a good sign. Really nice all by itself with a little chill on it yet works with light delicate flavor foods. I recommend it!

What to do with unused wine? (PB)

Billy raised an issue or at least alluded to an issue that deserves comment. What to do with leftover wine or wine that is “bad.” I have heard numerous people say something like, “Well, I’ll use it in cooking.” Okay let’s get a grip here and be rational. The quality of your cooking is dependent to a large degree on two things; the quality of the ingredients and the ability of the one preparing them. So here is a culinary axiom for you. No matter who you are—even Charlie Trotter—if you have garbage for ingredients, your talent will only take you so far, and that won’t be too far. Which means ingredients and their quality are important. So if a wine is BAD to drink, it is not going to undergo some mystical transformation when you use it in a recipe or a sauce. So if your wine is truly bad, it is NOT suitable for cooking either! Dump it, give it to your cat, or see if it will remove stains but don’t use it in cooking.

Rule of thumb—I find most red wines will last a good week in the fridge may be even two as far as using it for cooking goes. A wine may not be very palatable to the discriminating palate but is still not “gone.” Go ahead and use it for cooking. White wines may last 2-3 weeks with the same caveats.

Monday, May 09, 2005

What to do with that bottle of wine (billy)

I have a bottle of wine in my cellar (Viu Manent 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon) that was a gift. Now, I reviewed that wine HERE and, as you can tell from that review, my opinion was pretty darn low (if buried under the feet of Lucifer in the fourth ring of the ninth circle of Dante's Hell can be considered low).

So here is my quandry. The wine is sitting in my cellar. I'm definitely not going to drink it. Yet I am loathe to simply pour it out. I don't know, maybe it's because my father was always expounding on the merits of frugality and stewardship.

Anyway, my question is this:
Do I keep it here and save it for an event with the less enologically inclined? Or do I give it away as a kind gift to a poor bloke who will probably not know the difference yet will appreciate the thoughtfulness of the gift?
I would wrap it up nicely.

What do you think? Leave a comment with your advice.

Rosso Del Salento 2003 (PB)

This Italian red is a light cherry color on the pour with nice fruit in the nose and a grapey bouquet with a slight touch of wood. In the mouth there is a flavor of raw fish (not bad, that’s just what it reminds me of) and steel with a solid tannin base but very short lived on the finish with an after hint of caramel.

I purposely gave this a couple hours to breath and it didn’t change as far as any new aromas but the flavors which were present at the open were just intensified greatly. This is a NICE wine with good structure and balance with nice raisin notes but not like the new world wines that taste like raisin bran. At $9 the only regret I have is having bought only one bottle. The two hour drive to the New Hampshire store where I bought it is just too far away. We paired this with a marvelous Carbonara with an added New England touch of fiddle heads. If you’re not from New England, you probably have no idea what I’m talking about. Trust me, it was wonderful with the homemade linguine. I’d love to raise a glass, but it’s gone!

Sunday, May 08, 2005

By the glass review (PB)

For Mother’s Day I took my wife to Boston (3 hours one way) to delight ourselves in the city’s famous “North End”Italian fare. I selected the restaurant due to its wine list. We ordered 2 glasses of Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Toscana Le Volte 2001. They were $13 a glass and an absolutely marvelous wine. I couldn’t swirl due to the lack of volume of the glass and even though it was served to warm it had an immediate burst of fresh cherries, very well balanced with several layers of olives, and an utterly fantastic layer of a fresh bouquet of flowers with definite cedar or menthol notes with another layer of anise or licorice and currants. I am going to have to find this wine now by the bottle which should run around $30...
I only wish I could raise another glass of this blue ribbon Super Tuscan creation.

Saturday, May 07, 2005

An APB for (NW)

Have you noticed that posts by (NW)have been sparse and even absent for sometime now? This is an All Points Bulletin to be on the lookout for the where-abouts of NW! Yes we know he's in the process of relocating but C'mon, you still have to drink wine. NW where are you???

Another restaraunt by-the-glass bomb (PB)

I went to one of those nationally known chain restraints that seem to be typically popular and wildly successful that specializes in a western motif with an abundance of beef on the menu. For me, prime rib is hard to beat if it is even moderately well prepared. And of course, if you’re going to have a slab of medium-rare steer, you’ve got to have a solid red wine equal to the task of standing up to it.

I had eyed a bottle of Kendal-Jackson Collage in a couple stores, but never broke down and purchased one for some reason. So what better way to find out if you like a wine enough to buy a whole bottle than to have a glass in a restaurant? So I ordered a glass of the KJ Cabernet-Shiraz Collage (they also make a Cabernet-Merlot Collage as well) and paid $6.50 for it. Of course I had no idea what year I was ordering as it wasn’t listed.

The wine came in a typically undersized glass such that if you attempted to swirl it, you’d end up with a mouthful in your lap. And of course it was not merely at *room temp (which is way to warm anyway) but was actually warm as if it had been sitting near a heat lamp or something. I asked our waitress how long the wine had been opened and of course she was clueless.

Attempting to sniff without swirling there was, I think, a hint of a bouquet though I’m not sure…In the mouth it was lifeless, dull and again, way too warm. That on top of a piece of meat that was so tough my steak knife was having difficulty getting through it, made it a less than memorable experience except for the fact that my girlfriend was across the table for me. She makes everything memorable.

The bottom line is, this was certainly not a fair evaluation of the wine and I’ll just have to buy a fresh bottle which I could for only a few bucks more than the small glass cost me at the restaurant. Let’s face it, in this kind of restaurant you have to expect such service and quality when it comes to wine. Caveat emptor!

*The "room temp" rule of thumb re: the proper serving temperature of red wine is misleading. The rule goes back to the days of old when room temp was typically around 55 degrees. So if get a red wine that is truly "room temp" (around 70 degrees) it is much too warm.

Thursday, May 05, 2005

Quick Swirl: Cline Zinfandel 2001 (PB)

Re-review of a tested wine: A lighter red Zin than most
nice berry nose;
hefty tannins and solid acid backbone that overpower the spice and berries in the mouth on opening.
One of my favorite inexpensive go to Zins.
We will pair it tonight with tacos in honor of Cinco De Mayo; a challenging pairing. For under $8, it’s a decent value and it will mellow out with some breathing. Raise a glass!

Tuesday, May 03, 2005

How NOT to dry your wine glasses (PB)

I like my glasses spotlessly clear so I usually avoid soap and just rinse the glass under very hot water. Then with a firm but delicate grip, I grab the stem of the glass and in an underhand motion fling it vigorously several times so the water flies out of it lest a towel leave streaks. Then, the remaining little bit of water that is left quickly evaporates to a nice shine.

Last night I had my favorite tasting glass—a Riedel “Bordeaux” glass I received this Christmas from my daughter and NW. It is (was) a beautiful, lead crystal stem with a large bowl allowing aggressive swirling which I loved. So I was in the process of going through my ritual cleaning and with my second vigorous fling of the glass I snapped the glass right off at the delicate stem sending the bowl across the kitchen at the speed of a major league fast-ball straight into our canaries’ bird cage wherein it disintegrated into nothing but minute crystalline shards. I am bummed, I have learned, and it shall never happen again. And the canaries are fine…or at least will be after some avian therapy.

Kendall-Jackson Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 Vintner’s Collection (PB)

This is a much lighter in hue wine than I would have expected yet there is a rich berry nose with a hint of smoke or “charcoal” as my wife said. In the mouth it is intense with big flavors and a fresh balance even without breathing. Tannins are subtle or mature(?) and there is a very nice undercurrent of something really unique and really nice that reminds me of “candy.” Candy what? I don’t know…
With a little air I smell a layer of chocolate which I always enjoy in my wine though this is more like chocolate covered cherries!

Oddly enough, the tannins actually are more pronounced with breathing, a new experience for me. This California reminds me of one of my favorite value wine from Chile called Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas. It was a gift so I don’t how much it cost but Wine Spectator posts it as a $16 wine. A very nice new world wine. Raise a gladss!

Monday, May 02, 2005

Chateau Clos des Menuts, St. Emilion Grand Cru 2000 (billy)

I paid $26 a bottle for this wine and it is tasty.
There is a rich vanilla on the nose that is complimented by black berries and a fresh "green" smell.

The palate is still quite tanic but I suspect that will mellow with some time still in the bottle (which is why I bought another to lay down). There are green earthy flavors with hints of anise and berries which give a touch of sweetness. I do not detect much oak, though others have.

The finish is grassy and long - not a bad thing in a Saint-Emilion.

Overall this is a bold wine. It is not subtle though there are pleasingly subtle layers to it. This is a wine for drinking from a flagon, a burly wine, a manly wine. Though, a manly wine with a refined air and the ability to be almost (but not quite) dainty.

raise a flagon or a chalice.

Saturday, April 30, 2005

Lindeman’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 (PB)

I bought this wine because it was on sale for $6 from $12 and Lindeman’s has a great reputation. I was not expecting much as with most wines I have purchased on sale at a 50% reduction, there was good reason why they were on sale at such a steep discount. I was pleasantly surprised to pour this rich deep purple wine with a bouquet of big fat berries with twinge of eucalyptus. In the mouth there are big New World flavors that assault your palate with spice, oak and nice sophisticated tannins. This is a well structured wine that opens a but with some air but is nice right at the pour. This is yet another example of New World style wines. It is big on flavor, though straight forward with a simplicity of just good fruit.

Additionally, on my way into the living room to serve the wine the bottle bumped a chair and spurted out some wine on the floor. My Schnauzer approached with the caution of a seasoned enophile, sniffed, (without opposable thumbs and no glass, he wasn’t about to swirl) but he did proceed to clean up all the spill. He seemed quite pleased with it all in all. So together we will raise a glass–I’ll raise his for him...

Thursday, April 28, 2005

Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2004 Regional Collection (PB)

Not long ago I reviewed the same wine of the 2003 vintage and loved it. This vintage is better yet! With a bouquet of rich fruit of melon and a touch of citrus and hint of vanilla. It is plush in the mouth with nice balance and tastes of New Zealand freshness. It finishes with a lemony hint that lingers. This varietal is classic of the grape with a wild grassiness that is very satisfying. Nice and at less than $10, it’s a recommendation! Raise a glass of this to be sure.

Monday, April 25, 2005

Barone Cornacchia 2002 (PB)

This brilliant purple pour I purchased simply because it was a Montepulciano D’Abruzzo. I knew nothing about this wine. I purposely breathed this wine for two hours before I reviewed it; something I generally do not do but knowing the origins of the wine, breathing was a must.

The bouquet is full of nice aromas with bacon being the most prominent. In the mouth this wine is large with a rich tannic foundation. It is tart with good acid and rather tends to kick butt generally speaking. Bought blind, this wine a good purchase! Paired with Venison steaks with blue cheese sauce and sauteed fennel, it was a smashing success. At $12, this is a good, old world wine, with character and staying power. The finish is pleasant.

Las Rocas Garnacha 2002 (PB)

Opening this Spanish Red it smells like freshly baked buns right out of the oven. There’s an earthy, musty hint in the nose with steely notes. Pepper is the first shot in the mouth with tight tannins. There is cedar underneath but this wine needs to be breathed.

With a half an hour of air time it opens to shed cherries and currants with a light fruitiness that begs to be quaffed more than savored. The structure of this wine is really well done though the finish is a tad short, it is nice.

I am told Robert Parker gave this wine a 91...that’s a bit overblown in my humble estimation. At $11 it is a good value but I would put it somewhere closer to 86. So who are going to believe? Mr. Nobody at winecask.blog or Mr. Wine himself??? The importance in wine tasting isn’t who is “right” as much as who better reflects your taste preferences? As an end note, this wine could use a couple hours of breathing before you enjoy it. Now go raise a glass.

Friday, April 22, 2005

Review: Carmen Reserve 2001

Carmen Reserve 2001 (chile) $14.99
Blend of Carmenere (60%) varietal
and Cabernet Sauvignon (40%)

Wine maker comments indicate that the wine is aged for 10 months in French and American oak barriques and then another 6 months of bottle aging prior to release.

On the pour: dark dusky red
Nose: large, thick and complex. Dark cherries and tobacco alongside a background of oaky smoothiness.

On the palate: a fine full flavor and excellently balanced. The fruit is soft - definitely an old world style wine – and well couched in a fine maturity. There is a roundness with a hint of spice and olive though not nearly like some of the other “olivey” wines.

The finish is smooth and quintessentially old world exiting from the mouth with a flourish that begs for an encore.


After letting this red breathe, it obtains a silky smoothiness and a bit more fruit. This is definitely going on the recommendation list, though I believe you can probably find if for two or three dollars less than the $15 or so I paid for it.

Vignamaggio Chianti Classico 2000 (PB)

This Sangiovese based wine from the Greve region of Italy holds a special place in my enophilic ponderings. Remember, wine is not just a beverage; it is an experience, a memory, a celebration of life. Villa Vignamaggio is the celebrated birthplace of Mona Lisa and is now a working vineyard/sleepover in the heart of Tuscany. Its manicured gardens and olive groves punctuate the spectacular Tuscan vista and some 525 years after the birth of Ms. Lisa, NW and our spouses had the luxurious privilege of staying at this lovely site. For pics go to-- http://www.lodgephoto.com/galleries/italy-tuscany/chianti/vignamaggio/

The wine has been aged for a minimum of two years before release—hence the “Classico” designation and is light ruby on the pour. Yeast immediately gives way to a very gentle fruitiness, simple and straightforward. In the mouth the flavors are subdued but definite and the structure of this wine is well done. With a few minutes of breathing, everything meshes into one fresh quaff with a very nice tannin foundation. The finish is somewhat compact but again, definite and delightful. ($20)

This is a great example of the difference between the old world and new world styles of wine making. You have to work at discerning the flavors in these old world wines whereas your palate is assaulted with the new world wines, which, reminiscent of one of NW’s past comments, all start to taste the same. I am beginning to agree.

But for the moment, my wife and I shall raise a glass in front of our framed photograph of the lovely Villa Vignamaggio with its pink hue and toast the spectacular time and memories we have of one extraordinary excursion. Some expression of Latin seems fitting here but since I am clueless I must settle for Pig Latin-- “Ahh, Ife-lay is-way ood-gay”

Tuesday, April 19, 2005

Hahn Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (PB)

This previously reviewed wine is fruity and a tad mentholated and brimming with berries right out of the gate. In the mouth it is brimming with fruit which is very ripe and brilliantly intense. It is the wonderful balance of the tannins that are plush and the flavors which are pronounced that makes this border on distinguished. With a little breathing licorice and raisins are strong in a fruit forward new world style. This is an awesome wine for $10 and I think this was a previous Wall Street Journal pick. No wonder. It is great with steak and my wife didn’t seem to mind it with salmon—not your normal paring but then if the pairing is off, it’s the food that was wrong not the wine! Consistent notes from last review. Now raise a glass!

Fetzer Gewurztraminer 2004 Valley Oaks (PB)

Today is a holiday for we New Englanders call Patriot’s Day. The sky is blue, the sun is warm (68°), I played golf today, had a great round shooting 6 pars and a birdie in my second round of the season. So the point of all that is, that with the mood I am in, I could drink a glass of chilled paint thinner and it would probably get a favorable review!

But objectivity prevails—sort of. I am partial to Gewurz anyway and Fetzer is always a reliable and very inexpensive ($7) treat. I even put my new desert wine glasses in the freezer to chill them and get a nice frost on the outside when the wine is poured. I’m on our porch with my girl friend of 34 years who happens to be my wife of 32 years (almost) and this wine is just exuding peaches and apricots in the bouquet with a fruity sweetness that thrills my palate. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, Gewurztraminer tastes like Summer! The finish is lingering peach juice. In a minute I’ll be grilling Salmon and rib eye steaks for me and my girl; to sum it all up; I AM BLESSED! I shall raise another glass of something else for dinner. Read on and raise a glass!

Saturday, April 16, 2005

Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 (PB)

This Paso Robles winery has produced a minty, bouquet’d varietal with a fruit forward nose typical of the new world style of wine making. From the gate, this wine is a show off. It has sophisticated tannins and a good mouth fell with big cabernet flavors that are down right elegant. The finish is vegetal but not nearly like so many carbon copy cabs you taste today. There is something else in the finish that is really nice but I can’t pin it down; I only know I like it—a lot! With some air, the wine has changed little; the flavors are well balanced, intense and plush with hints of mocha and lots of berries. Many cabs are good food wines but not all that great on their own. This wine was half gone before I had dinner served. This is a first rate wine that I would score a 90! At $13, this is recommended—highly!!! Now get an education in good wine and raise glass of this excellent work from the Liberty School!

Tuesday, April 12, 2005

This is one movie that went down “Sideways" (PB)

Every where I turn recently there’s another essay or advertisement for the movie “Sideways.” Two guys tour California wine country as a last gasp of fresh air before one of them enters that dreaded state of marriage just one week away. While there are a couple of nice wine scenes, the conversation is banal, the vocabulary obscene, the wine remarks plebeian, and the portrayed attitude towards sex, marriage, real love and women is offensive. On top of that stellar beginning, dump three totally gratuitous, and pornographic scenes and you have another typical Hollywood horse apple. The language reminded me of my former life as an airborne paratrooper only a bit worse. (Even I knew more than one expletive…)

If this movie, supposedly about wine, was a wine, it suffers from TCA, is contaminated with brettanomyces; is corked, shot, and turned to vinegar! I give it a big fat ZERO. I am sorry I wasted $4 and two hours on the film not to mention feeling dirty and defiled. Shame on me.

If you’re thinking you can fast forward past the garbage (that’s why I waited for the DVD) you can’t. The action is too fast, the scenes unpredictable and you would have to mute the entire movie to eliminate the offensive language. Please learn from my mistake, pass on this one and go raise a glass--of MERLOT, just for spite.

Monday, April 11, 2005

Sterling Vintner’s Collection Pinot Noir 2003 (PB)

This Central Coast delight was bought on the recommendation of the Wall Street Journal by Gaiter and Brecher. It is light on the pour with a raspberry bouquet. In the mouth it is impressive with a real nice balance of fruit, tannins and acid; they all work in consort bringing forth steely flavors with hints of smoke and finishing with a touch of cocoa. With a little time to breathe, cherries are up front and the balance is superior with a long elegant finish abounding in chocolate. This is a fine fruit forward, New World wine. With the last gulp a wonderful little surprise of fresh basil made an appearance then said Adieu! At $12, this is worth seeking out, rasing a glass and then another and another...

Sunday, April 10, 2005

Clemente VII Chianti Classico Riserva 2000 [Revised] (PB)

This Tuscan work is cherry red to the rim with a chalky appearance with plenty of yeast and vegetal notes loaded with olives in the bouquet. ("Chalky" is overstated; it just gives the appearance of not being crystalline as some wine colors seem. Normally, a true "chalky" appearance would be a great concern leading one to think "bacteria." FYI)

There is fresh fruit fighting to break out. In the mouth this wine is obnoxiously tannic, closed and *arrogant.

[*I cracked myself up when I described this wine as "arrogant." If you're like me, I often chuckle at wine reviews for the anthropomorphic descriptors used for the wine. So let me explain: This seems like a quality wine but it doesn't want to reveal that fact and doesn't really care. It gives just enough to tease and seems to take pride in doing so. That's what I mean by "arrogant!" And yes, I'm laughing too.]

The finish at this point is smokey with an almost BBQ’d ending. We will breath it rather extensively which is required of many of the Tuscan creations. (See NW's post re: Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino 1999)

At 1 ½ hours of air time (with decanting)it’s bouquet is hardly unchanged. At 2 hours there’s light currants, a little spearmint that is fleeting and fun, but still very tannic, bitter and tart (acidic) with hardly any give. This wine has a chip on its shoulder--or bottle, if you prefer...)

Finally that steely Sangiovese is able to debut and finishes again with more smoke. At 2 ½ hours, the tannins break a bit and floral notes emerge with grape and raisins in tow with a guest appearance of eucalyptus. The tannins, and acid base tend toward a better balance but still too austere and belligerent for my tastes. Never-the-less, this is a good example of old world creativity with some complexity and a study in taste. At $16 Wine Spectator gives this wine an 88; I would give it an 82.

Gift Review: San Sebastian Vintners Red (billy)

vintage not available.
slightly yeasty on opening
good deep red color
very intense strawberries and cherries accost my nose.

I take a sip – who! Watch out. Is this strawberry syrup or wine? It was a gift for my birthday from a dear friend who (presumably) had not tasted it before. This is a wine from a small Vineyard in St. Augustine, Florida. I guess we know now why Florida exports Oranges and not wine.

I poured a taste for my wife who aptly remarked that it reminded her of her college days and drinking Koolaid and Everclear. I think “atomic koolaid” would be nicer (and certainly less pretentious) than this bottle.

Maybe I'll let it breathe for a bit, just to see what happens.

Later – the breathing really opens up the Koolaid flavors. I taste Wild Raspberry and Super Strawberry in there.

Seriously, this wine is likely a tourist trap wine. It is made for buying relatives to remind them that they were not where you were and probably didn't have as good of a time as you did – but definitely not for drinking. (except maybe through a “beer bong”)

Quick Swirl: Domaine du Tariquet Gros Manseng 2002 (billy)

What an interesting wine. What strikes me most and most quickly about this French white is that it's “like Champagne, without the bubbles”

In the glass the color is fascinating. I've never seen it's like in my short time as a wine student. It is a deep marigold yellow. Not washed out at all, but deeply yellow, bordering on orange. Fascinating.

On the nose: I've got to say, it smells like a Brut Champagne. It is crisp like green unripe pears with citrusy oranges (not too much of them) and quite a jammy green grape.

On the Palate: simple, (some would say elegant) not too complex but flavorful. It is a complimentary wine – goes as well with marinated portabello caps and french-cut green beans as it does with Willy Wonka Bottle caps and jelly beans.

Finish: apple peel and citrus and the desire for another glass – not because it is incredibly interesting from a flavor profile, but because it is so fun to drink.

This is a sweet wine, dryer than some but fit for a dessert accompaniment as well as an aperitif as well as with the main course. I paid $12.99 for this – a bit much considering there is a lot out there for the same or less that is of a higher quality but not as flexible.

If you see a deal on this wine, go ahead and grab it – it's worth it just to see the wine pour that brilliant yellow-orange. Accept it as a gift and know that you can drink it – now. But don't bother searching it out.

Saturday, April 09, 2005

Expensive Steaks, Expensive Cabs, and the Great Debate (NW)

These steaks were expensive at the little Rhode Island restaurant serving USDA prime! The cowboy cut ribeye was a whopping $38 and the small porterhouse $46. These prices trump Ruth's Chris, Morton's, Del Frisco's, and even Peter Luger. Wow!

As far as the wine, well, the wine list was a who's who of California Cabernet Sauvignon. This little joint had a few bottles of everything. My business associates urged me to order a big, tasty Cab, so we started with 2002 Cakebreak Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine has a very fragrant nose which fills the room with ripe dark fruit and a floral hint. It is rich, smooth, and very ripe (as is the style of the day). It finishes with moderate tannins and some more smooth layers of fruit. Very tasty wine! But does it compliment food? Not so well, actually- not even the steaks. This is a big, fruit-forward wine that tastes great on its own.

As the steaks arrived, my associates wanted to try a different wine. We went with a 2000 Groth Cabernet Sauvignon. It was very, very different. This wine was herbal and earthy on the nose, a more subtle style that require some concentration to uncover the emerging layers. It was smooth on the palate, but also a little shallow. The group didn't enjoy this wine as much as the Cakebread, but they failed to notice that it was a far better pairing for the steaks. No one even mentioned this. It wasn't fruity, ripe, and fragrant like the Cakebread but rather a compliment to the meal without overwhelming the food.

Both wines were priced at $90 on the wine list and both had unique characteristics that raise the great debate once again. Is the ripe, fruit-forward style of the day able to compliment food? Or is it a wine style that should be nursed in a glass on its own? This debate will continue and is being placed center stage in the world of wine. Old World versus New World. Round 10. My advice, raise a glass of New World before dinner and pour a glass of Old World with dinner!

Friday, April 08, 2005

Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 (NW)

Or should it be called Constellation Cab...

Big blackberry and currant nose, followed by some cocoa
Smooth on the palate and a little earthy
Moderate tannins on the finish

This is a fairly well-made Cab and comes from a great tradition. Although it is the lowest rung of the premium Napa Valley bottlings from Mondavi, it is substantially better than the Private Selection label that usually shows up at parties and casual affairs.

I made the mistake of drinking the wine on its own, without food. It isn't an exciting wine to nurse own because it's not an ultra-ripe, fragrant wine. Rather, it's a subtle wine that is versatile and excellent with a wide variety of food. I've read a lot about Robert Mondavi over the past few years and believe he always desired to create "food" wines. This is surely in part due to his Italian heritage, but also his obsession with unlocking the secrets of Bordeaux in a California bottle.

The Napa Valley sells for about $25/bottle in stores. When you need a "classic" Cab and a good food wine, put this on the top of your list. Raise a glass...and a fork!

Thursday, April 07, 2005

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Tuesday, April 05, 2005

It's HERE! or Anticipation Makes the Palate Grow Fonder (billy)

Aaaahhhh. It has come. After having it sent to a sister in California and then having her beg, barrow, cajole, and convince the postmaster to allow it to come to me in the Midwest, my bottle of Viandante del Cielo Merlot 2002 has arrived. Does the name give you any hints as to why it is special?

This very special bottle of red will be put away until May 19, 2005.

I would hope that by now you can intuit why. However, for those of you who are yet uninitiated, another hint:
"Viandante del Cielo" is Italian for "Walker of the Skies"

How about this:
This wine comes from grapes grown on Skywalker Ranch in Marin County, CA.

That is right dear friends, THIS wine is as collaborative work between George Lucas, the genius behind Star Wars, and Francis Ford Coppola (who also made a movie or two) who's Niebaum-Coppola estates have been producing some delightful California wines for a while.

But why May 19, 2005 you ask? Why, that is the date that Star Wars Episode III, Revenge of the Sith, opens in theaters. I'll be there, in costume, and when I get back from the show, I'll celebrate the finale of the Star Wars cannon with this bottle. Who knows what it will yield. But, frankly, whatever comes out, it will be memorable and enjoyable. Until then, anticipation is sure to make my palate fonder.

I will be sure to share the results here. Until then,

May the Force be with You

Monday, April 04, 2005

Da Vinci Chianti 2003 (billy)

well it was such a beautiful day today that instead of eating dinner at the usual time, we took the family to a Spring time meadow to hear the red-wing blackbirds, frogs, ducks and geese that have returned. Consequently we got home late and still needed to eat dinner.

Instead of having a Cheerios dinner or (worse) a fast-food "meal", I decided to see what I could whip up from what we had at hand. What came out was (what I now call) Tuscan Tempeh. It was fabulous - fresh mozzarella, seared tempeh, garlic Italian toast. Mmmmmmm. So what did the wife and I open? Why something from Tuscany of course.

We selected Da Vinci Chianti (2003) from the Chianti Region of Tuscany. It has a wonderful nose absolutely overflowing with olives, raspberry (strawberry?), and brine. The fruit - definitely strawberry now, and plum - explodes onto the palate and quickly fades leaving traces of the olives and some bitterness. The finish is a bit green - akin to that of an herbal tea that has steeped too long and become slightly bitter.

We didn't really let it breathe and the wine is better for it. It seems to degrade rather quickly as bitterness takes over. I'm drinking another glass right now (about 2 hours after first opening the bottle) and while it is still nice, the green-grassy finish is much more noticeable.

The wife bought this bottle and believes she paid about $11 or $12 for it. For that price, it's a fine dinner and drinking wine.

Open it at parties and talk about the olives and berries (something even the uninitiated can discern in this wine) and you'll be marked as a wine intellectual. Your friends will start asking you for recommendations and you'll feel important. This is a reputation creating wine. There's enough in here to allow your wine-snob friends to give you a double-take (or try to catch your eye the next time they wax philosophic about this or that fruit of the vine). And there's enough in here to convince your Malibu-and-Coke drinking girlfriend that you're sophisticated and debonair.

Give it a whirl - with your girl.

Beaujolais Villages Nouveau 2004 in real time (PB)

This nouveau, now 6 months into its release, is a very pretty ruby in the glass with light fruit aromas so typical of the Gamay grape from which all nouveaus are made. This one is released by the well-known, Joseph Drouhin. There is a slight mildewy odor in the nose, and it carries over onto the palate. This is where wine tasting gets a little weird. This is a subtle but definite aroma which is not to be confused with a “flaw” in the wine. It might be down right offensive to some yet down right enticing to others. I fall somewhere in between. The wine is tart, shallow (not unusual for Gamay) with a pleasant, grapey finish. It should be served considerably cooler than a typical red wine and not critically tasted as much as guzzled.
I paid $3.99 for this wine for as you know, Nouveau wines are meant to be consumed immediately upon their release. They do NOT age. Hence the reduction in price for this fast aging wine. Frankly, I tasted a couple different Nouveau’s this year when first available at twice this price, and they were not this enjoyable. Take advantage of the short longevity of this wine which should yield some good wine bargains in the next couple months to come.
I will pair it with a baked, stuffed halibut for dinner tonight which is why I am going to raise one more glass and get cooking!

Sunday, April 03, 2005

Quick Swirl: Wallaby Creek Shiraz (PB)

light reddish
alcoholy bouquet
finish was down the drain

I just came from a friend's house where we had pizza and they served this magnum of wine with a "wallaby" on the label. Any label with an animal on it, is not a great way to start with me; just a personal hang up O.K.? Anyway, This wine (I use the term loosely)was a sick "sort of" red with alcohol and yuck as the primary bouquet. In the mouth it tastes like, well, something that orginated with the Wallaby which is a smallish kind of kangaroo. The finish was excellent--meaning I finished it by dumping my glass. No it wasn't a corked wine; it was just a poor excuse for wine and I have had more pleasure out of numerous jug wines. I don't know how much it cost but who cares? Leave this Wallaby and its creek down under!

Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2003 (PB)

This New Zealand creation is golden with a bouquet of kiwi fruit and pineapple. In the mouth it is dry with a buttery cream texture and flavors. This is definitely NOT a California or Washington state S. Blanc! It has lingering finish of pineapple, is tart with a touch of bitters. After a few minutes another layer emerges of “oh my gosh, shut up," classic Sauvignon Blanc grassiness. My wife was nuts about this wine suggesting I buy more.

I wasn’t as wild about it; not because it isn’t a truly well made wine and a text book S. Blanc out of New Zealand, it’s just a matter of taste preference. It actually paired well with bruschetta and a classy meal of pork and macaroni and cheese. I would buy this again both for my wife and the simple pleasure of a well made, varietal that you can actually differentiate from a Chardonnay; not always easy these days with all the wild and weird creations called Chardonnay. Because I believe it is readily available, and because it is such a good example of the grape, I have to recommend this. At $9.50, you can raise a glass or two.

Essensia 2003 Orange Muscat Dessert Wine (PB)

At the risk of sounding like “Billy” I am compelled to call this a sensual wine. There is just so much going on with textures, flavors and aromas “sensual” seems appropriate-- meaning appealing to or stimulating the senses. On opening there is lilac and orange blossom aromas all over the place. The color is an orange twinged golden with crystalline clarity. In the mouth there is just a bit of a lack of acid but not enough to detract from the overall pleasure and balance of this perfumey dessert wine. Flavors of caramel and fruit carry into the finish which doesn’t quit.

Now here’s the kicker; this wine sells for $11. There is no way a first growth Sauternes can compete with this dollar for dollar. No it’s not a Sauternes and no it’s not a first growth and no it doesn’t quite have the depth of the former but...neither does it have the price tag! This is a must find; put a decent chill on it, but don’t kill it. Then, raise a glass!

Friday, April 01, 2005

Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz 2002 (NW)

Peter Lehmann Barossa Shiraz 2002:
Ripe fruit and a nice richness on the nose
Very smooth on the palate with berries and a little kick of pepper
A silky, buttery quality underlying the fruit
Smooth finish, goes softly but lingers

Too much Australian Shiraz tastes the same- but not this one! This is a really nice wine that I read some commentary on a year ago. Finally, two months ago, I spotted a bottle in a grocery store for $19. I looked it up to find the retail price should be $15-16 and decided to pass on the premium-pricing strategy this supermarket offered. I'm glad I did, because a new first-rate wine shop opened near my home and they offered this Shiraz for $15.90. A terrific bargain of a wine! I could spend much more money and not get wine of this quality. When $16 tastes like $60, I'm reminded to raise a glass!

Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino 1999 (NW)

Banfi Brunello Di Montalcino 1999:
Tight, so we decanted
Patiently nursed it in our glasses for two hours as it opened up- and it was continuing to evolve
Big rich, spicey, nose
Warm and flavorful on the palate
Layers of spice, berries, cherry, smoke, cocoa, earth
Long, long finish

Awesome wine! A rare treat! Our dinner guests surprised us with this outstanding bottle of Brunello to pair with a homemade Timballo. We decanted and waited...and waited for the flavors to emerge. But it was well worth it! If you are going to enjoy this wine, plan ahead and let it breath. (This goes for many other big, earthy Italian reds, too, such as Borolos, Barbarescos, and Super-Tuscans. I was once at a professionally-arranged wine tasting and they poured the Italian reds in everyone's glasses a full three hours before the scheduled event).

The dinner guests outdid themselves with this wine. It sells for approximately $65 in stores and is often one of the top offerings in Italian restaurants at double this price. Banfi has set the standard for consistency in Montalcino, Italy, as they produce good wines every year and great wines in great years. Look for 1997 and 1999, if possible.

Raise a glass to this small, hill-top town in Tuscany and the powerful juice it produces! By the way, I looked up the 1999 Banfi and Wine Spectator gave it 94 points!

A Blast of Flavor (boone)

Wow, I can't believe it. Now I've never seen this rated in the Wine Spectator or even in the Wine Enthusiast but that is clearly an oversight on their part and one of the reasons why The Wine Cask is committed to ground-breaking and paradigm shaking reviews.

So here you go:
Country Kwencher ($2.09)
Year: Non-Vintage
Winery Name: Boone's Farm
Varietal: Other
Designation: Country Kwencher and other varieties
Country: USA
State or Region: n/a
County or Appellation: n/a
Price: 2.50 (list)

There really is not anywhere you can go that this wine won't be available. If you can fine a Kwick-Mart or Circle-K you can be sure that you'll be enjoying a nip off this delight - in most cases, you don't even need to (want to?) remove it from the brown bag it comes in.

The Boone's Farm Country Kwencher is a pioneer in the screw-cap vs traditional cork bottle closings and have a product that prooves the screw cap can keep in the liquid.

And for under $3 dollars a bottle who can argue? You can get Three or Four TIMES as much of this treat as you can for a single bottle of (PB)'s recommended Chateau Du Donjon Grande Tradition 2003.

So Raise A BAG!

Thursday, March 31, 2005

Chateau Du Donjon Grande Tradition 2003 (PB)

This unknown red (unknown to me) is ultra yeasty like mom’s baked buns fresh out of the oven. (Okay like Pillsbury’s buns out of the oven) There’s not much else there though other than nice yeast on opening. I bought this knowing nothing about it, but in the mouth it is surprisingly nice. This light red called "Grande Tradition" from the appellation Minervois has good structure, nice balance, delicate tannins and a finish that is subtle but polished. Breathing does nothing but then it doesn't need to. I like this wine. It is simple, straight forward, has some nice currant flavors though not big at all yet defined, fresh and pleasant. (old world) For $8.50 and unknown I would have expected it be a loser; what I got was a really nice quaffing wine. I would buy this again. Raise a glass!

Subsequent addition to this review: After posting my review I found this wine rated on the Wine Spectator web site. It was given an 88 and rated a “best Value.” They actually said, “A nice quaff.” I think they’ve been reading my bog… :)

Wednesday, March 30, 2005

Two Big Napa Valley Cabs: Prices, Scores, and So Much More (NW)

I recently tasted two big, expensive Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignons that are worth comparing: a 2001 Sterling Reserve and a 2002 Pride.

Sterling Napa Valley Reserve Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon 2001:
This wine was very tight upon opening, so we nursed it over two hours to see if it would open up in the glass
Very tight at first, but opened up to a big, powerful, fruity nose
Layers of dark berries, plum, spice, and some oak and vanilla
An intensity and earthy tartness
Strong tannins and long finish
Excellent compliment to grilled sirloin and twice-baked potatoes

Pride Mountain Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2002:
A little tight, but opened up rather quickly
Fruity nose with dark berries, sweet strawberry, plum, spice, and vanilla
Moderate tannins and long, smooth finish
Very well-balanced overall and elegant
Paired with filet mignon and assorted sides

These are great wines to compare and contrast. Both are Napa Valley signature Cabs, both are pricey, and both were enjoyed with steak. The Sterling had an edge to it that the Pride did not, and I describe this as earthy tartness. The Pride, though, was more approachable and well-balanced overall even being a year younger. The Sterling was more powerful, but the Pride had an elegence to it. Both paired well with steak and were crowd pleasers. It is interesting to see two variations of signature Napa Valley Cab.

Which one would I reach for again? I really enjoyed the qualities of both wines, but the Pride wins...just by a hair. It is slightly more well-balanced and a little less expensive. The Sterling has a retail price of approximately $75 in stores, while the Pride costs roughly $65. This $10 difference, remember, equates to a $20 difference in a restaurant. With dinner, I believe the Pride would be a little more versatile. But that Sterling...it was big, powerful, and dramatic in a way the Napa Valley Cabs can be at their best. I even appreciated that hint of tartness, but wondered how that scores with the critics.

The interesting part of this comparison is in the scoring! The Sterling scored 83 points in Wine Spectator, while the Pride scored a whopping 93 points. A ten point difference? For those of you who follow scoring on the 100-point scale, you know that very few Napa Valley Cabs score 93 and higher because they are the most meticulously critiqued and highly scrutinized wines available in the American marketplace. I think this is on the high side for the Pride, although it was delicious. What about the Sterling? I assume the modest score reflects the tartness that I had trouble figuring out but really enjoyed. Still, a ten point difference? I really enjoyed both wines, they are fairly comparable in price, and both paired well with steak.

In the world of wine scoring mania, 93 points can make a winery and 83 points can break a winery, especially at this price point. It's important to understand that scores shouldn't matter. If you like the wine, drink the wine. Buy it if you like it! Wine is a matter of preference! Scores influence us, though, and I should admit that if I had known about the Sterling score before I ordered it, I probably wouldn't have done so. When possible, I only research scores after I've tasted the wine myself. Of course, this isn't always the case and scores can be useful ahead of time by giving us a starting point for important wine purchases when there is a lot at stake (like a lot of money, for example).

This was an interesting comparison between two highly-regarded and well-established wines. I recommend both wines and really enjoyed both for their unique characteristics. Raise a glass...or two! -NW

Updates

It has been far too long since we've updated our links to highlight some of the best wine reads in the blogosphere. So take a moment and check out the carnival of wine, down on the right in the section entitled "Other Wine Related Reads".

There is lots of wonderful wine and cultural and just fun stuff there. Take a moment and expand your horizons of wine blog reading! You might find something you like.